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“There Will Be Bread....”

Most bread service is pretty standard—a few rolls or slices of country bread, with some olive oil or butter, and that’s that. But then there are places that go the extra mile and really make things special, so special in fact, that I’d be happy with bread service and wine alone. Laurent Tourondel does it up with his hot cheese popovers at BLT Steak and his garlic and cheddar rolls at BLT Fish, but a recent favorite is The Smith, where chef Glenn Harris takes things to another level with the a hot and buttery garlic bread baguette. Another contender Daniel Boulud who serves oversized gougeres (softballs are the same circumference), along with slices of just-baked baguette at his newly opened Bar Boulud. But last night while at chef Harold Moore’s new restaurant, Commerce (50 Commerce Street, 212-524-2301), I had the bread basket of the century.

I was at the bar with Craig before seeing a play at the Cherry Lane and we just had time for a cocktail and an appetizer to share. I had the Brunswick—a stunning mix of scotch, fig jam and fresh lemon juice ($12) and we shared an order of smoked salmon over potato salad with dill, which was quite good, but more of a filet of salmon that the gravlax I expected. No matter, I didn’t really need the salmon because of what arrived before it. A plate topped with napkin folded over into some sort of origami bread pouch filled up with about a half-dozen types of bread, all fresh baked in house that morning. There was a buttery mini brioche, an sourdough olive roll the shape of a fat bullet, a ciabatta and a sesame roll, and my favorite, and one that I think they should turn into a bar snack with mustards and cheese—the soft malt pretzel.

For the pretzel, Moore makes the starter from paté fermente, which is made the day before and then incorporated into the dough with molasses and malt syrup. The finishing touch on the pretzel is poached for one minute in water and baking soda, which gives it a chocolaty color. It’s soft and slightly salted and you can taste the malt, which made me crave a beer and some cheese. (That came after the play.) They’re also toying with some stuffed breads, which has me thinking that Chef Harold Moore should consider a retail bread space. Until then, get over to Commerce for some bread and a cocktail.

Do you have a favorite spot for bread service? Share your two cents below!

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Posted: February 22, 2008 - 2:02 pm

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