Is Fish the New Pork? » the strong buzz, by andrea strong

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“Is Fish the New Pork?”

The last couple of years in the business have been all about the swine, with nose-to-tail pigging out a constant force in practically every restaurant worth its weight in bacon. But have the opening of Ken Friedman's John Dory and David Burke's December slated Fishtail ushered in a new love for the daily catch? The opening of Flex Mussels suggests the answer may be yes.

This new seafood and mussels emporium, owned by Bobby and Laura Shapiro with Garner Quain and Megan MacQuarrie, originally hails from Prince Edward Island where they opened it in 2005 as an 18-seat take out shack on the Summerside waterfront, serving 22 types of mussels, home cut fries and a singular lobster roll. Lucky for us, it’s now arrived on the Upper East Side, located in the former Zocalo space, and it features a similarly expansive selection of PEI mussels in two dozen varieties that span a world of flavors Mexican (chipotle peppers, lime cilantro, sol and garlic, $16/lb), to Thai (curry, coconut broth, lemongrass, garlic, ginger and lime, $17/lb), Maine (lobster, corn white chowder, $18/lb) and Southern (bourbon, roasted corn, mustard, country ham, and cream, $18/lb.)

In addition to the mussels, executive chef François de Mélogue (Café Mariposa in Deer Valley, Le Ciel Blue at the Mayfair Regent Hotel, Joel Robuchon’s Gastronomie) is also serving a menu entitled “Not Mussels” that includes “Burnt Fingers”—a sort of frito misto that includes crispy fried calamari, shrimp, oysters, shallot rings with spicy aioli dipping sauce, Belle River rock crab cakes with vegetable slaw, citrus aioli, and fried herbs, lobster rolls, fish and chips, a Provencal shellfish stew, and grilled organic salmon with leek fonduta, mashed potatoes and Unibroue mustard butter.

Flex Mussels’ 20-seat oyster bar is under the care of John Bil, one of Canada’s top oyster shuckers and a three-time winner of the National Oyster Shucking Championship. Check out the shucking show while sucking down a dozen (or more) plump and briny PEI oysters, served with a cadre of six sauces including fresh grated horseradish sauce and their custom made “Beach Blaze” hot sauce. Wine, beer and cocktails compliment the fresh fish fare.

Flex Mussels is located at 174 East 82nd Street, between Lex and Third Avenues, 212-717-7772, http://www.flexmussels.com. Hours: Sunday- Thurs- 5 pm -11 pm, Fri & Sat- 5 pm – 12 pm.

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Posted: November 19, 2008 - 3:36 pm