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“Dell'anima's Second Act: L'Artusi to open Tuesday”

Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale, the chef and sommelier team behind the West Village favorite Dell’anima, are opening a new spot to sate cravings for their signature brand of hearty, homespun Italian fare. L’Artusi, which is set to open Tuesday in the former Maremma space on West 10th Street, is named after the beloved classic Italian cookbook La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene (The Science of cookery and the Art of Eating Well) written by Pelligrino L’Artusi. And if my meal at Saturday’s friends and family is any indication, you will eat well at L’Artusi.

Their mission for L’Artusi runs a similar course to that of Dell’anima—accessible Italian food in a stylish contemporary setting. But at L’Artusi we’re treated to an expanded menu, and more seats to boot, with a large downstairs dining area that includes three food bars: one overlooking the kitchen, one overlooking the crudo station and one surrounding the cheese and wine bar, as well as an upstairs dining room that includes a private room. The Maremma space has been gutted and renovated so that the kitchen is now completely open, which adds a liveliness to the gray-walled space that is quite welcome.

Gabe’s menu starts out with about a dozen types of crudo, from sheer slices of hamachi decorated with fennel, olive and campari ($12) to rosy slices of beef carpaccio drizzled with a horseradish crema ($13), and scallops dusted in sea salt and chives and glossed in olive oil ($13). Next up are Verdura—everything from salads of romaine with dry roasted olives and diced egg in a bracing vinaigrette ($10) to autumn lettuces with Marcona almonds and Manchego cheese ($12), and sides like creamy cavolo nero laced with parsnip puree ($7) that was better than any creamed spinach I’ve ever had.

Pastas include spaghetti and meatballs ($16), orecchiette with artichokes and chestnuts ($16), and caccio e peppe, among others. The portions are all appetizer sized so you will have room for the pesce and carne selections: the likes of roasted quail with sausage and semolina ($15), chicken cacciatore ($20), or tuna in escarole, with anchovies, mint and raisins ($20).

One of my favorite dishes of the meal came at the end—the olive oil cake with honey-soaked golden raisins and a cloud of whipped cream. It's worth a trip just for that dessert (but you might as well have dinner, too.)

L’Artusi opens on Tuesday night at 228 West 10th Street, between Bleecker and Hudson Streets, 212-255-5757.

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Posted: November 30, 2008 - 6:28 pm

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