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“The Good Fork”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Brooklyn Moderate Great

The hassle of taking the subway and then the bus came up only the first time we made the journey. But after the fat and crispy pot stickers plumped with pork and ginger ($5), and the tender charred slices of soy-marinated steak on a mound of spicy kimchee rice topped with a perfectly fried egg ($17), the issue was only when we would return, not how. We would have walked to Red Hook barefooted in the torrential rain. With the twang of blue grass in the air, the soft East River breeze blowing in through the curtained windows, and waitresses in kerchiefs and vintage print skirts, The Good Fork feels snug and familiar, like a joint for regulars in some dusty far away place. The menu, though, feels decidedly Manhattan, owing to chef Sohui Kim’s schooling at Annisa and Blue Hill. To start, there are crispy veal sweetbreads bedded on a juicy grapefruit salad ($10) and crab cakes so loaded with sweet lumps as to inspire seconds. Entrees offer more of the same—simple food with a flash of brilliance. There are marshmallow-sized scallops seared to a buttery brown and served with dollar-sized shrimp-scallion pancakes, and firm asparagus touched by soy vinaigrette ($20), a bowl of ruffled papardelle sauced with a homey but head-spinningly wonderful wild boar ragu ($15), or a fat juicy burger flanked by a stack of tempura onion rings ($15). It may be late in the evening by the time you leave that enchanted little place. Take a cab home. The Good Fork is located at 391 Van Brunt Street, near Coffey Street, 718-643-6636

 

THIS REVIEW FIRST APPEARED IN PAPER MAGAZINE 

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