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“Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires”

  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American West Village Moderate Good

sing, soothingly jibed, so much so it’s the first thing I’ll order when I go back.

For an entrée, I took a cue from the neighborhood character sitting next to me, coincidentally the talented character actor Peter Jacobson (House), and ordered the porchetta ($30), a heaping portion of tender pork loin stuffed with earthy morels and topped with pickled ramps. It was the quintessential early spring dish —substantial yet seasonal. And as if I was trying to increase a dress size in one sitting, I also ordered a side of the divine black truffle mac and cheese ($9), in which Zijp exhibits a mercifully spare hand on not only truffle, but cream and cheese. Though I was less impressed with the English pea risotto ($19) that my husband ordered, as it was a bit soupy for my taste, its fresh-from-the-garden flavor, however, was notable.

Thanks to my gut-expanding ordering technique, dessert was an impossibility, though I did like what I saw on the menu—with warm beignets, chocolate mousse, apple crisp, and crème brulee hitting all the right spots for sweet cravings. I also liked the looks of the new brunch menu: eggs en cocotte ($12) and chef Sebastiaan’s own hangover cure (eggs, chicken sausage, fingerling potatoes, caramelized shallots, $15). So, yes, Bar Blanc Bistro has now earned a spot on the regular rotation for me, as finally, the place fits in better with its locale. Welcome to the neighborhood (again).

–Kathleen Squires

Bar Blanc Bistro is located at 142 W. 10th St, 212-255-2330 www.barblanc.com

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