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“Prime Meats”

  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Brooklyn Moderate Good

The Franks (Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli, that is) are slowly becoming the mayors of Brooklyn’s Court Street. First, they seduced the neighborhood with their hip and homey version of Italian fare at Frankie’s 457. Since then they’ve been hard at work (growing their beards) and expanding their empire on Court Street to include an artisan coffee salon (Café Pedlar, in partnership with Duane Sorenson of Portland’s Stumptown Coffee), and an old school steakhouse called Prime Meats. While they are expanding rapidly, they’re doing everything with their signature hypersensitivity to style as much as substance.

Prime Meats is gorgeous, dressed in tin ceilings and heavy dark woods, centered on a stunning bar where proper cocktails are served in delicate vintage glassware, cold beers are poured into heavy steins, and platters of delicate housemade charcuterie are snacked on, along with soft, just-out-of-the-oven Bavarian pretzels sprinkled with salt, perfect for dipping in their accompanying pots of sweet dark mustard. If my day could be spent eating pretzels and drinking beer at Prime Meats, I’d be a happy woman. Add their juicy and salty aged steaks (from Creekstone Farms), and nirvana might be in reach.

Craig and I stopped in last week for early dinner, leaving Emily at home with my mom for a little date night. We found the place completely deserted, save one table up by the front window where two men in shirts and ties feasted on generous burgers draped with thick slab bacon. We were seated at a corner table for two in the back with a view of the garden and shared a couple of glasses of wine and looked over the menu, which is brief—just a few salads, a steak, a burger, a Weisswurst, a trout and a chouchrote carnie, but that was enough to tempt us.

A lamb special that night was delicious: tender, juicy chops ribboned with fat, and slices of loin on a bed of sautéed kale and roasted fingerling potatoes. It’s a simple meal, but that’s sort of the Frank’s hallmark here: nothing too fussy, just good ingredients, expertly prepared, and served with little fanfare. The strip steak, in fact, arrives humbly on a white oval plate, with nothing more than a fluff of mache and slivered radishes to keep it company. In presentation, it’s sort of one step above a working man’s lunch, but in terms of taste, it’s fit for a king. In my opinio ... [more, click below]

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“Forget these arrivistes; Queen rules Court Street”

Ignore the p.r. driven hype which has propped up the Frankie's "empire". Queen rules Court St. It is where judges, lawyers and yes, defendants, have been dining on first rate Italian American cuisine for years. Queen, 84 Court St. Brooklyn USA

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